Low slung skirts were a departure from higher, cinched waitslines of past seasons.
While we want to save the trend reporting for later in the week, there is one thing that we just have to mention: Spring 2013 is all about classic, retro shapes. That could be said for every season, as everything old is new again with each collection, there are no new trends, and so on and so forth, but there really is a distinctly time warp vibe to many of the shows that we’ve been to, and Marc Jacobs was no exception. His show at the armory opened with a look that was without a doubt an ode to Twiggy–a coltish blonde model with her hair pulled back, bangs pushed forward in a faux-bob, wearing an oversize white t-shirt with a black bar design (a la Black Flag) over what appear to be a pair of black bikini underwear. It’s pure mod simplicity, playing the casual, so-basic-it’s-high-art ease of the t-shirt alongside the bare youth of the model’s legs. What followed from there were a series of striped looks that appeared straight out of London or New York in the 1960’s: urbane, practical, but not without a distinct sense of fun and adventure. Boxy trench coats and suits that were just a little left of classic dominated the early part of the show in shades of black, nude, slate, with the a pop of leopard print breaking up the uniformity here and there. Models wore the skirts much lower than we’ve been seeing the past few seasons, with exposed hips peeking between skirts and blazers, which were worn sans shirt underneath. With clean, slim, and straight silhouettes that reminded us of the costumes that Mia Farrow wore as the title character in Roman Polanski’s Rosemary’s baby, suit jackets were certainly not the sexy menswear inspired looks we’ve been seeing on red carpets (remember Taylor Swift and Kat Graham at the VMAs?). Skirts ranged from pencil to a-line, but fell below the knees. Where’s the whimsey, you ask? A skirt paired with a cropped sweatshirt emblazoned with a black and white screen print of Mickey Mouse reminded us of Azealia Banks’ “212” look, and was a reason to smile amid a sea of serious fashion.
Stand-up collars and structured satins added a dramatic flair to Marc Jacobs’ mod looks.
Since this was a collection that seemed to span all of mod fashion–from it’s relaxed, life of leisure side to it’s more buttoned up, Victorian predecessors–the Marc Jacobs collection was not simply a collection of carnaby street-ready suits and trenches. Body skimming, psychedelic-striped maxi dresses brought a more swinging ’60s mood into the mix, their wide keyhole necklines and wonderful drape bringing to mind a more Valley Of The Dolls idea than the rest of the collection. Followed up by satiny, ultra short sheaths, simple save for petal detailing at their hems, and moving into more structured collars and buttons, the dresses were totally wearable, and not just for the red carpet. After moving into the more structured side of mod, with stand up, edwardian-leaning collars accenting maroon tunics in white, and large, almost cartoonish buttons, Jacobs through a few surprises into the mix. Gleaming paillettes and sequins adorned skirts and tops cut in a similar vein to the earlier suits, and skirts looked almost shredded, with tentacles connected with sheer panels seeming to float across models legs as if under water. With such an interesting collection from the designers namesake line, we absolutely cannot wait to see what he reveals in his Marc by Marc show this afternoon.
What did you think of the Marc Jacobs spring 2013 collection?