Mugler’s Stark, Dramatic, Insect-Inspired Creations

Models walk the runway in creations by Japanese-Italian designer Nicola Formichetti and French designer Romain Kremer for Mugler during the Fall/Winter 2012-2013 ready-to-wear collection show on Feb. 29 in Paris.
Photo: Getty Images

Goodness, will you just give me a moment so I can offset spatula my molten face off the floor? Swooooons, guys. How good was the Muger show? Did you stream it on from their Facebook page like I’ve been haranguing you all week on Twitter to do? I hope so because it was kinda amazing. First of all, I loved that there was sound and you could tell it wasn’t some weirdo dubbed version because you could hear people shifting around in their chairs. The energy of people getting ready always sucks you right into the voyeurism aspect which is great because who doesn’t LOVE intimacy?

Having talked to creative director Nicola Formichetti earlier this week, we knew that the Mugler F/W 2012-2013 collection was inspired by “insects” because the musical director of the show Ryuichi Sakamoto told us so (more on the music later) but it’s one of those things where “bugs” so often get translated into butterfly prints so I was delighted to see full-on, 3D, tough-looking exoskeleton bits, pointy shoulders, strong thorax, as well as the willowy, somber-faced, purposeful models marching in these massive, yet, delicate shoes at a clip that looked very much like albino ants fording a formica counter top. Glorious.

The music, as expected, was beautiful. Nothing mirrors the starkness of black-and-white insects quite like the sparse, haunting notes of Mr. Sakamoto’s piano keys and the tension of the models’ clipped strides were complemented by the light-handed score. Going back to the livestream, though, another thing I ADORE about unfettered visual and aural access to the backstage immediately following a show is how admirably gracious designers are in the moment. BECAUSE THEY HAVE TO BE.

They’re probably starving, thirsty, exhausted and yet forced to receive an endless stream of folks to air kiss while they chatter enthusiastically about the line you’ve slaved over FOR MONTHS which they saw for all of seven minutes. I’m sure it’s lovely to get compliments but how specific that headspace must be! The fact that we get to watch it all is pretty exquisite (we <3 the internet). ESPECIALLY since we got to witness a quick hullo from the fabulous, party-throwing LEGEND Susanne Bartsch who was wearing the most extraordinary veil. Priceless.

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