Marchesa's Fall Collection Is Fit For A Queen

Marchesa Fall 2012 New York Fashion Week.
Photo: Getty Images

While I don't get many (read: any) excuses to wear Marchesa, there's such a stately female elegance that comes with the name and each forthcoming collection that keeps the label as my red carpet go-to in all my most opulent daydreams. The luxurious materials, breath-taking silhouettes, and the regalness of their signature filigree aesthetic over sheer panels is enough to have you back in Pampers imagining your life as a royalty, wearing layers of tulle to the breakfast table. Tonight's New York Fashion Week showing fell right in step with all of that, exhibiting markedly Marchesa finesse with winks at a few McQueen sensibilities.

Marchesa Fall 2012 New York Fashion Week.
Photo: Getty Images

Period-esque opulence is certainly Marchesa's bass line aesthetic, but this season wasn't just about the volume of skirts or beadwork. Their signature filigree was taken to many different implementations from maribou feathers to applique to laser cut into leather, all to exquisite results. Layers of lace and tulle and chiffon dominated the carpeted runway, punctuated by Christian Louboutin court shoes and knee-high sandal/boot hybrids. Chinoiserie made an appearance in several pieces, as did many aesthetic choices reminiscient of the late great Alexander McQueen. Now, don't get it twisted. This isn't to say we don't think the Marchesa girls' collection is original, quite the opposite, really, in a season that has been full of dark hues, military minimalism, and harshness. We just appreciate the style notes taken (the feather work, the gold, the hard-lined cap sleeves, the midline symmetry) from such an exemplary artist.

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